Hello Everyone. It’s been kind of a quiet week for me out here on the road. It was Labor Day Weekend here in the United States this week (for my international friends), which is always a busy travel weekend so I thought it would be best to lay low for it. I spent a good bit of this week in Portland, catching up with some friends and exploring the city. Since then, I’ve been cruising up the incredible Columbia River Gorge which is really just outside of Portland but has so much to offer. I’m writing this newsletter this week from Hood River, so I’m as far inland as I’m going to go for now but it has been spectacular and so good to be back out and hiking again. It is definitely noticeably and considerably warmer the further I get from the coast which is why I am headed back towards the Pacific starting tomorrow. I will save the rest of my time in Oregon for later in the year when it has had some time to cool down a bit. While not a particularly busy week, it’s definitely been a good one, so let me tell you what I’ve been up to.
When I left you all last week, I did, in fact, drive all the way to Portland. There were some cute towns along the way as I drove up the Columbia River, but none that called out to me to stop and explore. When I got into Portland it was pretty late, so I decided I would go check out the two main tiki bars in town and see what they were up to. The first one I stopped at is a classic called Alibi which has been serving up delightful tiki cocktails since 1947. The décor was great and I loved the fish tanks and fountains. After a drink there, I made my way down to Hale Pele, a much more modern bar hidden behind an incredibly bland façade. Hale Pele is owned by Martin Cate who also owns some of the country’s best tiki bars – Smuggler’s Cove in San Francisco, Max’s South Seas Hideaway in Michigan and False Idol in San Diego. While I would say of those four, this was my least favorite, that doesn’t mean I didn’t like it. I had a couple of great cocktails and they had an extensive rum list as well. It was small and very crowded, but I definitely enjoyed my visit. After a few cocktails, I was thrilled to find a Northern Thai restaurant called Sweet Basil open late and right up the street where I could get some spicy noodles to soak up the rum. It was a nice first evening in Portland.
On Thursday I ran some errands around town and then went out to meet up with my friend, Andrew, in the north part of the city. Andrew is a fraternity brother of mine from Penn State and has been living in Portland for many years now. I try and catch him when I come through town, but usually I’m here with a tour group so it’s usually a short visit. This time I had more time so it was good to be able to spend the evening hanging out in his neighborhood. We went to an event called Last Thursdays in the Alberta Arts District which is a fun neighborhood street fair held on the last Thursday of the month. There were street musicians, food trucks and plenty of cool stalls selling all kinds of things. We wandered up and down the street, stopping here and there to check out a stall or watch some music (the break-dancers were particularly fun). We stopped for some good Mexican food and a beer and then headed back to his place for the night. As much as I enjoy my van, it was nice to spend a night inside for a change.
I left my van parked at their house in the morning and got a ride downtown from his girlfriend andI spent the day at the Oregon History Center. I spent several hours in their permanent exhibit on the third floor which covered Oregon’s history from its indigenous roots all the way to present day. There was a lot to see and to read and I was surprised when I checked my watch for the first time and realized I had been up there for over four hours. I had afternoon plans and I was also nearing the end of my attention span, so I whipped through the rest of the museum over the next hour and then headed out. I grabbed a quick lunch from a nearby food truck and a beer from a bar in a converted English double-decker bus and then hopped on the city bus back to where I was parked. From there it was just a quick 15 minute drive to my friend Josh’s house. Josh lived in the city just north of me when I lived in Japan many years ago and I particularly remember a wonderful ski trip we took together to Sapporo. I haven’t seen him since I left Japan and was really happy to catch up with him in Portland. He took me down to Mississippi St, another of Portland’s many business districts. We had a nice stroll up and down the street, stopping here and there for a beer. My favorite was at a spot called Moloko that had several big saltwater fish tanks lining the walls. I love tropical fish and I really enjoyed watching them swim around while we caught up. Some of Josh’s friends joined us and we wandered down the street for some barbecue from Matt’s BBQ which was pretty good. Right around the corner is an alley filled with Star Wars characters and lights and sound effects which was pretty cool and very Portland. From there we went to a cool little bar near Josh’s house in St. Johns which had some fun old video games and pinball machines before winding up at a great little dive bar which reminded me a lot of some of the places I used to hang out at in New Orleans. It was another fun day and so good to see Josh after a dozen years.
I stayed in my van that night, but right at Josh’s house, so we were able to have breakfast together in the morning before parting ways. I made my way down the road to Satellite Bar, which is the Penn State Oregon Alumni Association’s official viewing site for football season. Andrew joined me for the game, as did my friend Cristen who also went to school with me. There were probably about 80 people there to watch our Nittany Lions sail to an easy win over the Nevada Wolf Pack. The weather was a little cooler than it has been in Portland recently and it was nice to sit outside and enjoy the game. Afterwards I went back to Cristen’s house for the night. Her husband and daughter came home soon after we got there and we had a wonderful dinner and some great conversation before calling it a very early night, which was much needed at that point.
I stayed with them for breakfast in the morning and then said my goodbyes and headed just up the road to Firestone. Shadow Catcher has been making some noises and I figured since they were open on a Sunday, it was as good a time as any to get it looked at. As I mentioned above, it was Labor Day weekend, so I knew it would be super busy everywhere nearby and I figured I’d get the work done and be ready to hit the road when everyone else was headed back to town (plus school started Tuesday in Oregon). I spent the day in Starbucks catching up on some work and editing some photos while I waited. They closed at 6 and when I hadn’t heard anything I wandered back over at 5:45, only to be told that they weren’t going to get it done that day (despite having promised that they would). That was incredibly frustrating and made more-so by their complete lack of communication about the whole thing. It was half done and they at least pulled it out of the garage and parked it in their lot so I had somewhere to sleep. Getting repairs done when I’m on the road is always a pain, but at least I didn’t have to go find a hotel somewhere. That left me with the night to explore a bit of Tigard which is a cute little suburb of Portland. I got some food and had a few beers and met some really nice people which made for a pleasant evening.
I didn’t sleep great though, in part because I was right next to a busy road and in part because I don’t like confrontations and I knew I was going to have one first thing in the morning. I didn’t roll in right when they opened at 7, but gave them a half-hour to get the lights on and their opening work taken care of. When I did come in, the manager was expecting me and knew I wasn’t going to be happy. He told me the situation and apologized profusely. I told him that I didn’t know if I could trust them to do the work and he assured me he would get his guy on it immediately, check the work himself and get me out the door as soon as possible. He seemed genuine and was true to his word and even knocked about 20% off of the price. It was way more expensive than it should have been in the first place so that helped, and I couldn’t drive much further down the road with it clinking and clanking away back there so I’m glad I got it done. At the end of the day it’s all part of life on the road.
Shadow Catcher did sound a lot better and it felt as though they did a good job, so we headed up the road to the gym and then I drove back to the north side of Portland and took the train into the city. It was nice to have an afternoon to myself to just wander around. I stopped here and there for a beer, ate some dinner at one of the food truck courts, checked out Powell Books (the largest independent bookstore in the country), and generally had a good time of it. I think my favorite spots that I hit were QD’s which had an old school Americana vibe, Kelly’s Olympian which is just full of old-school neon, inside and out, and Raven’s Manor which is decked out like Halloween every day of the year. I’ve been slowly getting to know Portland over the years, but I’ve rarely been able to just wander aimlessly about and see what I can find and it was nice to do just that. While Portland definitely has some problems that it needs to address as far as drugs, homelessness and the general state of its downtown area, everywhere outside of that central core is pretty nice. Within the city center there is still a lot to do and it is getting better, but there’s still a long way to go.
Bright and early Monday morning I put Portland in my rear view mirror and started heading east for the first time in a long time. I made my first stop in Troutsdale at a place called Edgefield. Edgefield was once the Multnomah County Poor Farm, but today is a part of the McMenamins enterprise. The McMenamins brothers are pretty famous in Oregon and especially in the Portland area. They take over old bars, hotels, restaurants and other properties and rehabilitate them into something special. I’ve been to a few of their places since arriving in Oregon, but after visiting Edgefield I will definitely be paying more attention. They have turned this institutional property into a beautiful and whimsical hotel with a brewery, a winery, several bars, a restaurant, a live event venue, a glass-blowing studio, a golf course and a spa. It was fabulous to walk around and see what can be done to a place like this with the right amount of inspiration (and money, of course). I often seek out old institutions in my travels because they are architecturally interesting to me, but more often than not they are abandoned and falling apart. I always think how amazing it would be if someone would invest the time and money to restore these old buildings and I’m happy to see that in this part of the country they are doing just that. And by the looks of the place they are doing quite well with it too.
Just outside of Troutsdale I headed into the Columbia River Gorge. The Gorge has been a transportation route for centuries as the American Indians used it as a trade and travel route. Lewis and Clark came down the Gorge on the last leg of their overland trip to the Pacific Ocean. It was the last obstacle that emigrants faced on their way down the Oregon Trail and the road that runs through it was the very first paved highway in the Pacific Northwest and the first designated scenic corridor in the country. I have been up the Gorge several times in my life, but always with a tour group in tow and always on a tight schedule. It was nice to be able to just take my time and get out and explore. I started my day up at Vista House which sits high above the Gorge and offers nice views over the road and the river. Just down the road, I stopped at Latourell Falls and hiked the scenic loop trail to the upper falls and back. At the top, I met Helen and KC and their sons Chase and Liam. I had actually taken their photo at the start of the trail and was taking some photos at the top when they caught up with me. The boys took off behind the falls, laughing and having a blast which was good to see. I chatted with their parents for a while about my trip and my photos and they gave me some places to check out when I move into Washington State. It was nice to meet them and I really enjoyed the conversation, but I said my goodbyes and then headed back down to the base of the falls and back to my van.
My next stop was Bridalveil Falls which was just a short walk from the parking area, but also very nice. Then I went to the Wahkeena Falls trailhead and took another nice walk up past Fairy Falls to the Wahkeena Spring. This walk was beautiful and I felt good doing it but it’s definitely been a while since I did any hiking and my legs were feeling it. It was starting to get late by the time I got down from this hike, but I did make a quick stop at Multnomah Falls on my way past. This is probably the most famous stop in the Gorge and one of the more famous waterfalls in the country. Funnily enough it is the bridge in front of the falls that makes it such a photogenic and beloved spot. I have been to Multnomah several times before, but I’m still glad I stopped. From there it was just a quick 20 minutes into the little town of Cascade Locks. I made it to Thunder Island Brewery just before last call so at least I could have a quick beer to celebrate the day. Cascade Locks is the town where the Pacific Crest Trail crosses the Columbia River via Bridge of the Gods, so there were a lot of hikers in town on their long walk from the Mexican border to Canada. They looked tired, but seemed in good spirits and I’m sure the beer tasted even better to them.
Another early start this morning got me to the Eagle Creek trailhead nice and early after a quick photo stop at Horsetail Falls. This was a hike recommended by my friend Cristen and it was definitely a good one. The hike travels up Eagle Creek which comes down a pretty impressive gorge of its own. The trail ascends above the creek and is sometimes narrow enough that the Forest Service has installed a metal cable into the rocks to hold onto. It was absolutely beautiful the whole way up and down, but also more exposed than a lot of the trails in the area so I’m glad I started early. I only went as far as Punch Bowl Falls, but it was a wonderful 5ish mile walk and a really nice way to start the day. I returned to Cascade Locks because I had spotted a little burger stand called the East Wind Drive-In last night and thought I would treat myself to a burger and fries and a little bit of ice cream as well. It was excellent and fresh and a real treat. After lunch I made my way on to Hood River, grabbed a shower at the Aquatic Center and have tucked myself into the library to finish this week’s This Week. I have added a few photos from my time in the Gorge, but hope to take some more and do a full photo post this coming week.
Tomorrow I will leave Oregon behind as I cross the Columbia River Gorge into Washington State. My normal plan is to spend my 6-8 weeks in each state in one continuous push, but it is still too hot in the inland parts of Oregon. I don’t love the heat and it’s especially hard to sleep in so I am moving on back to the coast and will pick up where I left off in Oregon later in the year. Since there was no way to get to Washington from California without traveling through Oregon, I started my exploration en-route and have really enjoyed it so far and am looking forward to getting back here in late October. Tomorrow will begin my time in Washington and I hope to be there for all of September and a good bit of October as well. I will make my way back down the Gorge and back out to the coast and head north again along the Pacific. I hope to explore some coastal towns, do some backpacking in Olympic National Park and then head out to the San Juan Islands on my way to Tacoma and Seattle. That’s about as far into things as I’ve thought right now, but I’m really looking forward to it. By this time next week I hope to be getting back to the coast and hope I’ve had some good adventures along the way to share. I’m definitely excited for what lays ahead. I hope you’ll come back next week and see what I’ve gotten up to. Until then, have fun out there and thank you, as always, for reading.
-Mike
